Marfa, Texas
Our Home in Marfa.
Getting to Marfa, Texas is a journey, no matter how you slice it! It’s been on Christina’s list for a while, and it seemed like the perfect time to check it out on our way to Big Bend National Park.
Why Marfa, you may ask? It’s a question many people ask before visiting—and often continue to ask once they get here!
Artist Cody Barber
Well, simply put, Marfa is an artsy-fartsy little town that has captured the hearts of artists for decades. In more recent years, Instagrammers have also promoted Marfa as they travel to experience its unique blend of art, culture, and West Texas charm.
In 1971, an artist by the name of Donald Judd brought minimalist art to this remote corner of Texas. Originally from New York, Judd was looking for a quieter place to work after years of the hustle and bustle of city life. He eventually acquired a former military base and transformed the existing buildings into spaces to display his work. What began as an artistic vision eventually grew into something much bigger. Today, Marfa is a mecca for art aficionados from all over the world.
But don't think you can just roll into town any day of the week and expect a bustling scene. That's not necessarily the case! With a population of 1,788 people, you can imagine how quiet this remote town can be. Walk the streets early in the week, and it feels a bit like a ghost town, minus the same two or three people you keep running into. Then, Thursday morning rolls around, and suddenly you're scratching your head, wondering, where did all these people come from?
Our advice? Have a plan and check what's happening around town before you arrive. Timing really does make a difference!
Since Marfa attracts visitors from all over the country, including plenty of big-city dwellers, you won't be disappointed by the accommodations or the food scene.
If hotels are your thing, check out Saint George, Hotel Paisano, or Bohemia. If you're like us and travel by RV, there's even an Airstream-inspired campground called the Marfa Yacht Club.
Now, let's talk food!
There are so many delicious spots to try that you could easily spend a couple of days eating your way around town. Here are a few of our favorites:
Bordo: A must in our opinion! A fun little Italian place known for their in-house pasta and amazing sandwiches. Here's a little tip: Show up around 10:30 a.m. because the line can get long by the time the doors open at 11:00.
Margaret's: Try the bolognese and the key lime pie.
The Water Stop: Great burgers, and even better margaritas (and we aren’t even margarita fans)
Marfa Burrito: A tiny hole in the wall with a big reputation. The owner is known as the burrito queen, and the walls feature photos of celebrities who have eaten there. They close at 2pm. So, get there early.
The Sentinel: A quaint coffee spot that also serves breakfast and lunch.
Planet Marfa: If you're feeling a little parched and need to wet your whistle, stop by for an eclectic, laid-back local vibe in an outdoor beer garden. Be sure to check out the ping pong table in the teepee.
And, of course, you can't visit Marfa without checking out the ART! See if there are any pop-up exhibits happening during your stay. If not, you can always explore established favorites like Ballroom Marfa, the Chinati Foundation, and the Judd Foundation. There's plenty to keep art lovers busy.
Prada Installation by Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset
And don't forget to take a drive about 30 minutes down the road to see the famous Prada Marfa installation. Yes, a Prada storefront standing all by itself in the middle of the West Texas desert! It's quirky, unexpected, and definitely worth a stop for a photo.
Beyond the art exhibits, shopping, and food scene, you also need to check out one of Marfa's biggest mysteries: the Marfa Lights.
Marfa Lights
Okay, These aren’t the lights but it is a beautiful sky.
Reports of these mysterious lights date back to the late 1800s. Head east of town to the viewing area, and you might get lucky enough to spot them yourself. Over the years, people have reported seeing mysterious orbs of light floating, dancing, and even splitting apart across the horizon. While they have been studied repeatedly, the cause of these lights still remains a topic of debate.
Naturally, we had to check it out for ourselves! Unfortunately—and to absolutely no surprise to us given we are astronomically challenged—we didn't see a thing. Not a single mysterious orb in sight! But don't let that stop you. Plenty of visitors have reported seeing the lights. So maybe you'll have better luck than we did. (It probably didn’t help that our patience ran out about 10 minutes in and we bailed!)
So, what's the verdict on Marfa?
It's quirky, a little mysterious, and definitely unlike anywhere else. I'll admit that we weren't the biggest fans when we first arrived. But the longer we stayed, the more the town grew on us. There's something about Marfa that slowly sneaks up on you. Maybe it's the art, maybe it's the people, or maybe it's just the charm of this unexpected little town in the middle of nowhere.
Whatever it is, Marfa definitely left an impression on us—and that's what makes it worth the journey.
Fun Fact: The “Giant” movie was filmed in Marfa in 1955 and artist John Cerney created plywood-cutout murals honoring the film.
