Savannah, GA
Forsyth Park
Savannah
We absolutely loved Savannah! It is picturesque, charming, and very walkable. There is so much to see and do and eat, and we made the most of all three!
Savannah is an incredibly lovely town. Of all the major southern cities, Savannah came through the civil war in the best condition. Local leaders rode out to meet General Sherman before he and his army arrived and offered to surrender the town without a fight if he would agree not to burn it to the ground. (He did a lot of that on his “march to the sea”.) Sherman agreed and, as a result, much of that pre-Civil War architecture still exists. The effect is amazing.
The Squares
Chippewa Square
Savannah is also blessed with a great deal of natural beauty. There are about two dozens “squares” - think park-like oases - one large park, and one really old cemetery throughout the historic district. Spanish moss-covered, live oaks are everywhere and are really beautiful. They are located throughout the city and are the highlight of certain areas like Jones Street, the Bonaventure Cemetery, and the Wormsloe Historic Site. The Bonaventure Cemetery is considered one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world and was a key filming location for Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil. The Wormsloe Historical Site was the home of Noble Jones, one of the founders of the state of Georgia. It features a 1.5 mile driveway lined by, you guessed it, Spanish moss-covered live oaks. It is breathtaking.
Things to do…
Oliver Bentley Dog Deli (with Brisket in the background! Read on for details….)
We started our visit by taking the Old Town Trolley tour. It was a great way to get the lay of the land and a quick rundown of some of the city’s more notable highlights. The Cathedral of St John would definitely be on that list. It is very nice on the outside, but truly spectacular inside. It definitely feels like one of the great European cathedrals. City Market is a pedestrian only shopping area with a fun, urban vibe, while the river district has a very old feel with cobblestone streets and “historic steps” that are signed “use at your own risk”. Mack’s favorite stop was the Oliver Bentley Dog Deli. This was a fun shop totally tailored to dogs…with humans being welcome too. Mack got to be off-leash in the store and play with all the other dog customers. One of those other dog customers, Brisket, turned out to be Mack’s own “brush with greatness” as she belongs to the actor Glen Powell, of Twisters and Top Gun: Maverick fame, who was in town shooting a film. Honestly, she was very down to earth for being a star in her own right! The store has a huge array of dog treats ranging from the expected — think milk bones - to the less so — like duck heads. For a usually picky treat eater, Mack devoured everything we put in front of him from that store. He liked it so much we went back the next day for more St. Paddy’s Day Doggy Donuts!
Southern Comfort
Six Pence Pub
While there are countless dining options, with our limited time in the city we were forced to pick just a few. Our first dinner was at the Olde Pink House which is located in a mansion dating from 1771. Apparently it can be very hard to get into, but we got lucky and were able to walk-in and get a table. We ate She Crab Soup (a first for both of us) and Fried Chicken with Mac and Cheese. While the chicken doesn’t sound all that exciting, it was definitely some of the best chicken we had ever had. Our second stop was at Alligator Soul. This place is located below street level and has an upscale feel. We both tried alligator for the first time, and, yes, it tasted like chicken, but it had the consistency of calamari. This was a definite “no” for Christina, and an “it’s not too bad” for John. We followed the alligator up with shrimp and grits which were much more satisfying.
Southern cooking is not just about food, it's about community.
We also had a late afternoon bite at Six Pence Pub where we got to try Welsh Rarebit (not, as John always thought, Welsh rabbit) and discovered it is quite good. We also met the nicest couple who, due to a mixed up order, got the Welsh Rarebit (again, not rabbit) and offered it to us as they were already drowning in food as the restaurant sought to correct their mistake. We sat and chatted with them for some time and enjoyed it immensely. Meeting people from across the country is definitely one of our favorite parts of traveling. More often than not, they turn out to be very kind, and sometimes, really interesting!!
